Grow and Care, Remontant Raspberry! (Repaired Raspberry)

How to Care Remontant Raspberry - Repaired Raspberry

The capacity to produce fruit on both biennial and annual shoots are one of the distinguishing characteristics of the Remontant raspberry varieties, which make up their own unique group of types. Horticulture began to see the introduction of such types around 200 years ago. Raspberries grown from remontant bushes can yield either one or two harvests each year. However, it is important to note that the quality of the second harvest will be poorer than the first.

In the sixties of the 20th century, breeders started working on the construction of raspberry varieties that would be suited to the climatic conditions of mid-latitudes. These types would be more resistant to frost and disease. There is already a sizable assortment of remontant cultivars that have garnered a fair amount of attention from gardeners. The common or standard raspberry stands out among all of the types because its stem is exceptionally sturdy; it does not bend, not even when it is loaded down with berries.

Brief description of cultivation

– Landing

At the start of the springtime season, around the final few days of September or the first few days of October, depending on your preference.

– Lighting

A great deal of dazzling sunlight.

– Soil

Suitable soil that is light and loamy, rich in nutrients, and not too compacted. The pH range that is ideal is 5.8–6.7. It is preferable that a location be chosen after a period of black fallow if at all feasible. At a depth of at least one hundred centimeters, groundwater should start to become visible.

– Watering

Regularly and in large quantities, once every seven days on average. On the other hand, when conditions are dry, the operation is carried out more often. It is important that the soil in the raspberry patch be slightly damp at all times. During the process of irrigation, the ground needs to be soaked with moisture to a depth of between 0.3 and 0.4 meters. Appropriate timing is essential for the application of water just prior to flowering, as well as during the growth and maturation of berries. Since the Podzimny irrigation occurs in the month of October, there should be a lot of it. Raspberry cultivation benefits greatly from the use of drip irrigation.

– Fertilizer

If the seedlings were planted in fertilized soil, then top dressing should not be done for the first two years after planting. In addition to that, the plants are fertilized on an annual basis. The most effective type of fertilizer is an organic one, such as a solution of chicken dung with a concentration of 1:20 or fermented mullein (1:10). If, on the other hand, the crops are mulched with humus or compost, then organic fertilizers are not necessary. Only after seedlings are really planted is superphosphate fertilizer applied to the soil. Potassium must be provided to bushes on a consistent basis (without chlorine).

– Pruning

Sanitary pruning is often performed in the months of spring when the kidneys are at their fullest size. Additionally, the root sprouts are eliminated at this stage. After the period of fruiting has ended, the stems of the plant are completely pruned. In the spring, robust young stems that have the potential to yield fruit will emerge.

– Propagation

Root shoots and green cuttings are taken from plants that are four to five years old (but only if the various forms them).

-Pests and Diseases

Aphids, spider mites, raspberry bugs, and caterpillars are some of the pests that can be found on raspberries.

Anthracnose, verticillium (also known as wilt), curliness, mosaic, didimella (also known as purple spotting), septoria, bushy dwarfism, and infectious chlorosis are some of the diseases that can affect plants.

Features of Remontant Raspberries

Raspberry is a kind of shrub that lives for many years. Within a depth range of 15 to 30 cm is where its primary roots may be found. At the same time, adventitious roots have the ability to develop up to a hundred and fifty to two hundred and fifty centimeters out from the plant. Regular raspberries and remontant raspberries are quite comparable; however, certain remontant raspberry types hardly ever generate root shoots, while other remontant raspberry kinds have a poor rate of vegetative reproduction.

Raspberries that are grown from remontant canes produce new young stems in the spring of each year, which are then used to support the development of fruit. By the time the winter season has begun, the portion of the stem at the top that was fruit-bearing throughout the growing season has withered away. On the portion that is left, fruit branches begin to grow at the beginning of spring; this is something that can be seen occurring in the more common types as well. In addition, the fruiting period of such raspberries is prolonged, which results in the formation of fruits on the bushes at various times throughout the season.

In comparison to regular raspberries, remontant raspberries offer a number of additional benefits, including the following examples:

  • There are practically no wormy fruits on the bush because of its better tolerance to pests and diseases;
  • Taking care of someone is easier;
  • With very few exceptions, all kinds bear enormous fruits.

These days, remontant raspberry plants are in high demand. It is an enjoyable plant to cultivate for both seasoned and inexperienced gardeners alike.

How to Grow Remontant Raspberries

How to Grow Remontant Raspberries?

What time to plant

Raspberries thrive on rich, wet, and relatively light soil. The groundwater level should be at least 100 centimeters deep at the specified site. Comparatively, remontant raspberries have even higher requirements for the nutrient and water content of the soil in which they are grown. A planting location has to be shielded from the wind and sunny, as fruiting starts later and yields are lower under shady conditions.

The best part is that these raspberries thrive in acidic soil (pH 5.8-6.7) For liming, they employ marl, dolomite, or ground limestone depending on the soil’s acidity level. Black fallow land or land that has recently produced green manure crops like rye, mustard, or lupine is ideal for sowing seedlings (6 weeks before planting raspberries, they must be plowed into the soil).

A reminder that you shouldn’t plant this kind of shrub in a spot that was once used to cultivate potatoes, raspberries, peppers, or tomatoes. Actually, these plants cause soil depletion, which is why raspberries grown there lack essential nutrients.

At the start of the spring season, you can plant seedlings in the open ground. The optimum time to plant them is in the fall, often around the end of September or the beginning of October.

– Spring Planting

Getting the ground ready in the fall is essential if you want to plant remontant raspberry seedlings in the spring. You should start by eradicating any weed grass and digging it to the depth of the bayonet on your shovel. The soil should be amended with 20-30 liters of humus or high-moor peat and 1 tbsp. of potassium sulfate and superphosphate (0.2-0.4 kilogram of complex mineral fertilizer can be replaced) per square meter before digging begins.

Hole-dig a 40x40x40 centimeter plot in the spring; space the holes at a distance of about 0.7 meters; leave at least 1.5 meters between rows. The root system of the seedlings you select should be healthy and robust. A 20-centimeter long shot with a diameter of at least 0.5 centimeters is ideal.

If you want to know if a seedling is good for planting, you should remove some of the stem bark and then take off one of the buds. The kidney should be fresh and not dry, and the bark on the side closest to the wood should be a vibrant green. Before being planted, the dried root system is submerged in a solution of a root growth stimulating chemical for 1-2 days. She’ll have plenty of time to bulk up during this interval.

Prepare a planting hole, drop in the seedlings, and fill it with potting soil. When planting remontant raspberries, make sure to do it in a way that the plant’s root neck is level with the ground. In sandy soil, the greatest depth that the root neck may be dug into the ground is 40 millimeters. The seedling has to be watered immediately after being placed. Mulch has to be spread over the soil once the water has been absorbed.

– Planting in Autumn

It was said earlier that planting raspberries in the ground in the fall is the best time to do it. The planting location is prepared for planting in the spring by digging it up and adding all of the fertilizers to the soil. This is done to get the site ready for planting. The same guidelines that are applied during the planting of seedlings in the spring should be followed during the subsequent planting of seedlings.

Growing Remontant Raspberries in The Growing Season

Growing Remontant Raspberries in The Growing Season

– Raspberry Care in Spring

The beginning of spring is the ideal time to begin taking care of remontant raspberry plants. A complete mineral fertilizer ought to be applied to the bush in the early days, when the ground has not yet begun to thaw out, in order to promote healthy growth.

April is the month that is used for the sanitary pruning of shrubs. All of the stems that have become dry or frozen should have their length cut down to the first bud that is still alive and in good health. If at the end of the previous growing season, you had the sneaking suspicion that pathogenic fungi had taken up residence on the plants, then you should definitely treat them in the middle of spring with a solution of Nitrafen or ferrous sulfate, the concentration of which should be equal to 1%.

This treatment should be done as soon as possible. If the bushes are in perfect condition, then the very first time they are treated for prevention at the very beginning of May, fungicidal preparations like Ridomil or Topaz are used. This is done to ensure that the bushes do not become infected with the disease.

Additionally, foliar feeding is required for remontant raspberries in the spring. A solution of full mineral fertilizer, to which a growth stimulating chemical has been added, is an appropriate choice for this purpose. In the last few days of May, the bushes are treated with any biological insecticidal preparation, such as Lepidocide or Aktofit, in order to rid them of any pests that may be present.

It is important to provide raspberries with consistent watering (about once every seven days), to aerate the soil surface, and pull weeds. It is important to keep in mind that the plant exhibits a negative reaction when the soil is compacted and weeds are present. Before the buds emerge in the early spring, the surface of the site needs to be loosened for the first time.

The ground surrounding the bushes needs to be loosened to a depth of between 50 and 80 millimeters, and the row spacing needs to be between 100 and 150 millimeters. If you do not cover the top layer of soil with a layer of mulch, then during the course of the season the soil will need to have its structure broken up between four and six times.

– Raspberry Care in Summer

The soil surrounding remontant raspberry plants must be loosened periodically throughout the growing season in addition to receiving regular watering. The more vigorous types will require staking or a garter to limit their growth. To begin, install sturdy high mounts that are hammered into the ground at regular intervals of three meters. After that, a rope or wire ought to be drawn in between them at two or three different heights, specifically at a height of 0.5 meters, 1 meter, and 1.5 meters from the surface of the ground.

In the summer, one may already see berries beginning their process of ripening. It is for this reason that using pesticides to protect raspberries from diseases and other pests is strongly prohibited throughout the summer months.

A covering is placed over the bushes to shield them from the sweltering heat of the sun, which would otherwise ruin the fruit. To accomplish this, a thin spunbond or mesh is thrown on top of them.

– Raspberry Care in Autumn

Raspberries of this kind typically bear fruit in the autumn months before the first frost. Before winter arrives, you should prune away any stems that are no longer needed. It is recommended that all sprouts on newly planted bushes be trimmed to a length of no more than 20 cm, and that thorough pruning be performed during the next growing season.

After all of the bushes have been removed, the area should then be cleansed of any old mulch and dead plant matter that was left behind. It is suggested that all rubbish be burned because it has the potential to create a breeding ground for diseases or pests.

After that, you need to give the raspberry plants water to help them retain moisture during the winter. After that, a reservoir is turned over to thoroughly aerate the soil, and after that, the surface of the soil is covered with a layer of mulch for the winter with a thickness of around one hundred millimeters; for this, humus or semi-rotted manure can be used.


It is required to water remontant raspberries in a methodical manner, and an adequate volume of water should be used for this purpose. One deep watering should be performed approximately once every seven days as indicated. However, if there is a lengthy drought in the area, it is recommended that the soil in the raspberry patch be moistened more frequently. Take notice that the soil at the location should have a moist but not dripping consistency at all times.

It is important that there be an abundance of watering so that the water penetrates the ground to a depth of 0.3 to 0.4 meters. Shortly before the plant begins flowering, and even during vigorous growth and the ripening of berries, special attention should be paid to the moisture level of the soil. When late fall arrives, very copious amounts of irrigation are required.

Even though it is a plant that thrives in damp environments, this type of plant has a negative reaction to the accumulation of moisture in the soil. Even more so than insufficient or infrequent watering, waterlogging the soil can be detrimental to the health of remontant raspberry plants. When soil gets soggy, not only does the air supply to the root system suffer, but the temperature of the soil also drops to an extremely low level. Because of this, the progression of the plant is significantly slowed down, particularly during the springtime.

Drip irrigation is the method that is most suited to this kind of culture. It helps maintain a consistent level of moisture in the soil and conserves water. However, it is entirely doable to water such a shrub using a hose, and it can also be watered using a ditch, which is an option that is ideal for it. To accomplish this, construct rollers of soil measuring between 10 and 15 centimeters in height all around the rows.

During the process of watering, water is dumped into a ditch that is not very deep underneath the roller. It is important to keep in mind that you should not use cold water when you are watering remontant raspberries; instead, you should pour the water into a large container and wait for it to warm up. If the soil in the raspberry patch had a layer of mulch on top of it when spring arrived, then the frequency with which you watered the plant should be significantly reduced.


The plants won’t require feeding for two years if the soil was fully fertilized during the site preparation for planting (see above). Top dressing starts to be done every year after the third year of raspberry growth. Such a culture reacts well to organic fertilizers because they are composed of all the nutrients required for the plant’s regular development. Such a top dressing also helps to strengthen the soil’s structure.

The ideal fertilizers for remontant raspberries are organics, such as a 1:20 solution of chicken dung or a 1:10 solution of fermented mullein. Two or three times during the growing season, organic fertilizers are applied to the soil: between three and

Remontant raspberry transplant

For 10-15 years, remontant raspberries should be grown in the same location without transplanting. After the fruits start to wilt or the yields become rarer, the bushes are moved. Crushed charcoal is then scattered over the cut areas once the plant has been dug out and broken into numerous pieces. Each delenka is then placed permanently in its new location. Sometimes it is necessary to transplant a berry bush since it was originally planted in an improper location.

The transplantation of these raspberries occurs at the same time of year and follows the same strategy as the initial planting of seedlings.

Remontant Raspberry in Winter

Because remontant raspberries are so resistant to frost, they do not require any special protection throughout the winter; instead, a thick layer of mulch should be applied to the soil surface in the raspberry patch. On the other hand, a layer of hay is spread over the ground before winter if the weather forecast calls for snow and freezing temperatures.

In this particular scenario, it is obligatory to set up a barrier that will prevent the hay from being carried away by the wind and thereby lose its value. If the shoots were not pruned in the autumn, they should be bent to the surface of the soil and crushed with a wooden shield or board. This should be done only if the fall pruning was not done. It is imperative that, when viewed from above, the stems be covered with a coating of spruce branches or flying leaves.

Pruning remontant raspberries

If any remontant raspberry bushes were not trimmed at the root in the fall, then it is important to examine the bushes at the end of winter to look for signs of frostbite, dried patches, and cracks. The injured stem should be cut back to the first healthy bud, and sanitary pruning should be performed on all of the plants that have been affected. It is not required to cut any shoots that are in perfect health because doing so can delay ripening or reduce the amount of fruit produced by the plant.

During the time that the kidneys are swollen, the pruning process takes place. The fact of the matter is that throughout this time period, healthy kidneys may be easily differentiated from sick kidneys.

If you choose to plant a variety on your site that produces a large number of root shoots, then you will need to remove them as quickly as possible. There should be no more than 10–15 shoots left on 1 square meter of the plot, while the other half should be comprised of fruit-bearing stems that have been around for at least two years. Replacement annuals should be planted.

Pruning in Autumn

At the end of the fruiting period, it is recommended by professionals that all raspberry shoots be severed at their roots. At the beginning of the spring season, new young stems will emerge in their place. These new stems will rapidly grow, mature, and create blossoms, and they will be able to produce a harvest that is satisfactory.

Because disease-causing organisms and destructive insects will be unable to hibernate following the autumn cutting, the newly developed young stems will be in perfect health. In addition, the growth cycle of the raspberry pests that are the most common during the ripening time of regular raspberries almost perfectly aligns with that of the raspberry pests. Because of this, the fruits produced by remontant raspberries are significantly less likely to be impacted by pests.

Propagation of Remontant Raspberries

Propagation of Remontant Raspberries

In the vast majority of cases, remontant raspberry varieties almost never produce root progeny. On the other hand, there are a few different types that consistently produce root shoots. The majority of root shoots develop in plants that are four to five years old, whereas the site can produce anywhere from two to fifteen offspring.

When the shoot has reached a height of between 50 and 100 millimeters, you should dig it out and plant it in the school garden. This operation should be carried out while the weather is cloudy. The soil in the garden ought to have some moisture added to it, and a layer of mulch ought to be spread over its exposed surface. Then make sure the plants are shielded from the sunlight.

In addition, they are cared for by being consistently watered and having weeds removed from the area around them. When the bushes have established full root systems, which should take about 15 days, they will no longer require protection from the sun. The progeny that was transplanted will begin to mature, get stronger, and develop into seedlings of superior quality by the beginning of the autumn period. At this point, they are ready to be transferred to their permanent location.

– Propagation by root cuttings

It is recommended that the root of the bush, which should have a diameter of at least 20 millimeters (mm), be removed from the ground in the autumn when the surface dirt in the raspberries will be loosened. It should be split into many segments, with the length of each section ranging anywhere from 80 to 120 millimeters in length. Create a groove that is between 60 and 80 millimeters deep, and then plant segments in it in a row that is continuous.

After the furrow has been filled in, apply copious amounts of water and finish by covering the area with a layer of mulch. This region will require consistent watering, weeding, and aerating during the following year’s growing season. Be sure to give young bushes the proper nutrition at the appropriate time, and don’t overlook the importance of treating them for diseases and insects. Planting mature shrubs in their permanent locations is best done in the fall.

– Propagation by green cuttings

Remove the root of the bush from the ground in the fall, at the same time that the surface soil will be loosened in the raspberry patch. The root should have a diameter of at least 20 millimeters (mm). It should be split into multiple portions, and the length of each segment should be between 80 and 120 mm in length.

Establish a groove that is 60–80 millimeters deep, and then plant segments in it in a row that is continuous. After the furrow has been filled in, apply copious amounts of water and then spread a layer of mulch over the top of the area. This area will need to be consistently weeded, watered, and loosened up during the following season. It is important to provide timely nutrition to young bushes and not to overlook the application of remedies for diseases and pests. Planting mature bushes in their final locations should be done throughout the autumn.

Pests and diseases of remontant raspberries

Pests and diseases of remontant raspberries

– Diseases and their treatment

Regular raspberries are susceptible to a wider range of diseases than their remontant counterparts. Despite this, it is still occasionally impacted by a variety of diseases as well as pests. The majority of the time, a disease caused by a fungus, such as purple spots (also known as didimella), septoria, anthracnose, or verticillium, will attack such a shrub (wilt). Fungicidal preparations, such as Topaz, Fundazol, Switch, Bordeaux combination, Oksihom, Fitosporin, Skor, Amistar, etc., are the medicines that have proven to be the most successful in the fight against fungal diseases.

Raspberries of this kind are susceptible to a number of fungal and bacterial diseases, the most common of which are root goiter and root cancer. It is impossible to save a plant after it has been infected. Because of this, they employ preventative measures as a means of combating diseases of this kind.

When selecting seedlings, they must be carefully examined; it is also important not to overlook the need to boost the immune system of the plant; agrotechnical rules of the culture must be strictly adhered to; proper care must be provided, and preventative treatments must be carried out in a methodical manner.

Raspberries are particularly susceptible to viral diseases such as bushy dwarfism, infectious chlorosis, and curly or mosaic, which pose the biggest threat to the crop. Because there is now no cure or treatment that is proven to be effective against these diseases, they pose a significant threat to human health. Therefore, if a plant that is infected with a disease is found on the site, it will be dug up and destroyed.

In addition, remontant raspberries can occasionally be afflicted with an incurable disease known as a mycoplasmal disease, which is also known as a growth, a witch’s broom, or a witch’s broom growth. Fighting diseases that cannot be cured is a pointless endeavor, but taking preventative steps will help keep plants safe from harm. In order to accomplish this, it is necessary to inspect the bushes in a methodical manner. If any infected bushes are discovered, they are promptly dug up and burned. For a number of years to come, the soil in the location where the diseased specimens grew will not support the growth of raspberries.

It is important to provide plants with the optimal circumstances for growth as well as the appropriate care. Investing in timely top dressing is beneficial to the immune system, therefore do it whenever possible. Maintain timely weeding of the area, and don’t overlook the need to combat pests, which are the most common vectors for disease transmission.

When planting, make sure to use only completely healthy plant material. It is important to keep in mind that the region in which remontant raspberries are cultivated should be situated as far away as possible from the region in which regular raspberries are grown. The fact of the matter is that it is more likely to be impacted by both diseases and pests that are capable of being easily passed on to remontant raspberries.

Pests and their control

It is possible for a wide variety of pests to take up residence on remontant raspberries; however, the most common of these are aphids, caterpillars, raspberry bugs, and spider mites. It is important to keep in mind that after the bushes have started flowering, it is strongly advised that pesticides not be used on them.

Gardeners with experience frequently employ use pesticides that are derived from plants. To get rid of ticks, for instance, you may make an infusion of garlic or onion peels and use it. In order to prepare it, put one hundred grams of crushed garlic cloves or onion husks into one and a half gallons of water. Following two or three days, the infusion is ready; after that, it is filtered and combined with fifty grams of laundry soap, which must first be dissolved in water that is just slightly warm. If you so choose, you can swap out the soap for concentrated dish detergent.

Varieties of remontant raspberries

– Early remontant raspberry

The varieties of remontant raspberries that ripen in the last few days of July and the first few days of August are the ones that make up the early variants of this type of raspberry. Take, for instance:

  1. Hercules. This disease- and pest-resistant cultivar with huge fruits also produces a consistent harvest and has a high fruit output. Stems that are already standing upright do not require support or gartering. The fruiting zone occupies one-half of the whole length of the stem. The variety is distinguished by its thin, robust, and pointed spines, as well as its very large fruits (weighing around 10 grams each), which have a dark crimson hue, a truncated conical shape, and a taste that is both sweet and sour for a refreshing flavor combination. The first few days of August mark the beginning of fruiting, which continues until the first frosts of the fall season.
  2. Brilliant. The first ten days of August are when this high-yielding variety shows signs of beginning to ripen its fruit. The height of the bush can reach up to one and a half meters at its highest point. The lowermost part of the stem is covered in pliable needles. Half of the total height of the stalk is taken up by the fruiting zone. The fruits, which have a conical shape and are bright red with a glossy finish, are on the larger side (they are found weighing about 7 grams). The flavor is reminiscent of a sweet and sour dessert.
  3. Bryansk anniversary. The bushes of such a densely fruiting type are of a size that is somewhere in the middle between small and large. In the final days of July, the ripening of the fruit can be witnessed. Both medium and large-sized fruits can have a saturated crimson color and an extended shape (up to 6 grams). The flavor is simultaneously sweet and sour.
  4. Apricot. This particular kind is among the most unusual. It possesses an exceptionally high level of resilience to both diseases and insects. The only location for needles is at the very bottom of the stem. The fruits have a weight of between 3 and 4 grams and have a golden amber color. Their shape is that of a blunt cone. They have the flavor of apricots, which is very pleasant. The first few days of August are the time when one can watch berries reaching their peak maturity. The arrival of the first frost signals the end of fruiting.
  5. Eurasia. This kind of large-fruited plant is resistant to both pests and diseases, which contributes to its great output. It has stems of the typical type, and all the way along their length, it contains rare needles set in various positions. Fruits of the sweet-and-sour dark raspberry kind have the shape of cones and can weigh more than 6 grams each.

– Varieties of medium maturity

Varieties are considered to be mid-season when their fruit begins to ripen between the middle of August and the end of the month. Take, for instance:

  • Orange miracle. This disease-resistant variety has enormous fruits and produces a lot of fruit. It also has a high yield. The fruits of the saturated orange have the appearance of an extended blunt cone, and their weight can get as high as 12 grams, while their length can get as long as 40 millimeters. The flavor of berries can be described as a sweet and sour dessert. The arrival of the first frost marks the end of the fruiting season.
  • Ruby necklace. This prolific variety yields fruits that are deep crimson in color, huge (weighing more than 8 grams), and dense. They have a deliciously energizing sweet-and-sour flavor. The tips of the stems are where the needles are located.
  • Mulatto. It is uncommon for a high-yielding variety to be impacted by several diseases and pests. There are both medium and large dark cherry fruits that are glossy and sweetish-sour, and they have a rounded form (weight of about 5 grams).
  • Golden autumn. The cultivar that produces huge fruits also has a high yield. The tips of its delicate, slender needles are located at the base of the stems. Up to 7 grams of mass can be contained in dense, elongated, conical fruits that have a golden yellow color. The berries have a distinctively sweet and dessert-like flavor, in addition to having a lovely aroma of raspberry.
  • Firebird. This is a cultivar that produces very huge fruits. Only at the very tips of its stems will you not find any of its fine and pliable needles. About 6 grams of bulk is contained within each conical fruit. They have the flavor of a dessert that is both sweet and sour, and their pulp is luscious and supple.

Late-ripening varieties

In the waning days of August or the first week of September, the berries of late types of remontant raspberries come into full maturity. To give just a few examples, there are not that many of them:

  1. Heritage; lineage Breeders in the United States were responsible for the creation of the variety, which came about as a consequence of a cross between the Cutberg, Durham, and Milton kinds. It is not susceptible to rot or freezing temperatures. In the final few days of August or the first few days of September, rounded, red, aromatic fruits are ready to be picked.
  2. Morning dew. Breeders from Poland are responsible for the creation of this cultivar. In the waning weeks of summer, yellow berries are seen developing to full maturity. They can weigh up to 8 grams and have a flavor that is best described as sweet and sour.
  3. Otm Treasure. This type has a very high level of resistance to both diseases and insects. The fruits have the shape of an elongated cone and are dense and juicy. They have a reddish hue, a good taste, and weigh around 5 grams each. Crossing two different types of Glen Moy and OTM Cascade led to the creation of this cultivar.
  4. Zyugan (Shugan). Swiss selection cultivar of mid-late flowering time is drought-resistant. The flavor of fruits that are of medium size is quite pleasing. The mass of the berries might reach up to 10 grams if they were properly cared for.
  5. Erika. Breeders in Western Europe are responsible for creating some of the most fruitful kinds, and this one is one of the best. Fruits are exceptionally huge and shiny and have a dark red color with a dense texture.

The best varieties

It is currently quite challenging to pick the best remontant raspberry variety among the many available options because there are so many different kinds. On the other hand, the cultivars Yellow Giant, Atlant, Apricot, Hercules, Indian Summer, and Penguin are the ones that are considered to be the most popular among gardeners.

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